It was to be the highlight of the trip, the reason for coming to Asia in the first place. The timing was dramatic -- a glimpse from the Red Fort in the afternoon, a stroll along the opposite side of the Yamuna River to see it in the almost full moonlight of Christmas Eve, then the actual visit with the classic approach to the reflecting pool and gradual immersion in the details of the most beautiful structure ever created.
But clouds got in my way. These are the ground-level clouds, aka fog, that made our drive from Delhi to Agra totally uninteresting due to the lack of visible scenery. Other than that plus a cracked rib from an overzealous Thai massage and a second bout of gastric distress, things were going quite well.
OK, end of diatribe.
The Taj Mahal, a mausoleum built by emperor Shah Jahan to fulfill his favorite wife's only wish, is truly wondrous and fortunately now preserved by its nation and the fact that it was built with materials that not only last but retain their luster over the centuries.
Much thought, not to mention 20,000 skilled and unskilled workers over 22 years, went into its design and construction. For example, the four minarets at the corners are tilted outwards so that if an earthquake hits, they will not fall toward the domed mausoleum.
Bas-relief floral patterns of dying leaves and blossoms indicate the fact of death and rebirth, a central tenet of the Hindu faith.
A nearby section has the classic crowned arch found in Hindu temples. The Mughal emperors were both powerful and politically savvy, making interfaith marital alliances, frequently demanding tolerance of different religions, and including symbolism in their art respecting all their surrounding cultures, so that visiting dignitaries might not feel that they were in the domain of an adversary.
The Red Fort is a city fort, with a moat containing crocodiles and alligators, a secondary dry moat populated by tigers, and finally a high battlement for the archers. (A hill fort, by contrast, uses geography in place of moats for defense.)
But clouds got in my way. These are the ground-level clouds, aka fog, that made our drive from Delhi to Agra totally uninteresting due to the lack of visible scenery. Other than that plus a cracked rib from an overzealous Thai massage and a second bout of gastric distress, things were going quite well.
I was simply paying for the sins of the East India Tea Company. Those Brits wormed their way into the hearts of trusting Hindustan and proceeded to pillage their economy and their most beloved treasures. The EITC extracted marble, precious stones, and gems for the Taj and dozens of other monuments and palaces to be sold piecemeal to the highest bidders in Europe.
The Taj Mahal, a mausoleum built by emperor Shah Jahan to fulfill his favorite wife's only wish, is truly wondrous and fortunately now preserved by its nation and the fact that it was built with materials that not only last but retain their luster over the centuries.
Much thought, not to mention 20,000 skilled and unskilled workers over 22 years, went into its design and construction. For example, the four minarets at the corners are tilted outwards so that if an earthquake hits, they will not fall toward the domed mausoleum.
This is the apex of Mughal architecture, which often combines Muslim and Hindu aesthetics. Complex and graceful geometric patterns reflect the prohibition of representative images in traditional Islam.
Bas-relief floral patterns of dying leaves and blossoms indicate the fact of death and rebirth, a central tenet of the Hindu faith.
The Taj Mahal is part of a larger complex that includes the Red Fort, where many Mughal emperors made their home, with many wives, soldiers, advisers, and laborers. The fort also has features representing multiple belief systems and traditions. Covered passageways and semi-enclosed rooms allowed women to move about unseen by men as decreed my Muslim law. . They could peer through filigree screens or elevated windows to the outside world.
A nearby section has the classic crowned arch found in Hindu temples. The Mughal emperors were both powerful and politically savvy, making interfaith marital alliances, frequently demanding tolerance of different religions, and including symbolism in their art respecting all their surrounding cultures, so that visiting dignitaries might not feel that they were in the domain of an adversary.
The Red Fort is a city fort, with a moat containing crocodiles and alligators, a secondary dry moat populated by tigers, and finally a high battlement for the archers. (A hill fort, by contrast, uses geography in place of moats for defense.)
Next to the fort is what used to be the largest mosque in India.
This was not the experience I had imagined since I was eight years old, when my brother made a drawing of the Taj for an art contest. Our excellent guide, Akshar Jain, said that seeing it through the fog is most appealing, adding to its mystery. I think if I got to see it as often as Akshar, I might agree, but since this is almost certainly my only chance, I would have preferred a clearer view.
I have seen many beautiful things, and hope to see more before I cease to be able to do so. The Taj Mahal may yet be the best of them all. It is definitely the most romantic monument ever conceived. Shah Jahan himself is buried next to his beloved, and unlike in traditional Islam, she remains in the center, while he is off to the side.
No comments:
Post a Comment