At first thought this seemed like the most romantic thing we could do for our anniversary (eve). But we hesitated last summer when I was booking this Delhi Magic tour. We asked about how the elephants were treated and if they had been born in captivity or forced most cruelly to behave as the trainer wanted. We did lots of soul searching and then Jim's mom gave us an Anniversary/Christmas check that would cover the cost of the Safari. While in Thailand, we decided to give it a go.
I wish we hadn't. We were rushed from the moment we got out of the car. The waiting elephants were really beautiful -- it was an impressive sight with all the mahouts sitting atop their heads. I should have taken a picture, but honestly, they didn't give us a second to think about what we were dong.
First they brought us four bananas to feed Rani. They said it was so she would "like us." Ha! I don't believe that for a minute. She did like the bananas though. Then we were rushed through a gate where the band started to play but the head guy told them to stop. I guess we weren't dignitaries. I wanted to take a picture of a camel and cart and just stubbornly stood still for 30 seconds to do that but it was obvious we wanted us up the steps to get on the elephant. Probably Rani gets impatient leaning agains the wall waiting for us to board.
They shooed us onto the "saddle," a platform of pink metal and very thin pillows. They showed us the stirrups, one on each side . OK that's the side leg, what to do with the other one? Curled in front, hanging on to a metal bar -- it all felt precarious and after a minute, extremely uncomfortable. Eventually, I leaned back with the bar gouging my back and propped up my inside foot on the front bar. At least my leg was straighter and I felt pretty securely wedged in. Just then the mahout said our trip would be 1.25 hours! What? Oh my, I was ready to get off right then and probably only 10 minutes had passed. So I learned to get used to the sway of the Rani's gait and look at the setting sun and check out the vegetation that was quite unfamiliar.
Rani had some serious elephant farts and then dropped huge soccer-ball sized scat. Lots! She seemed happier after that. Could I know if she was happy? Not really. I just didn't think that taking tourists on sunset rides had been on her bucket list, to say nothing of her 5km trip to get home.
Eventually, we came to a little platform in the "jungle" where we got a glass of beer and the offer of picture taking. Good thing I brought a camera because you can't see anything of an elephant when you are on top of her! I was fully expecting to be offered a picture of all of us, but no. They didn't offer such things unless you were on a company outing and the company requested it. I somehow got the idea they really weren't happy seeing the likes of us -- but I don't know what they did want to see.
Finally, we arrived at the beginning where we were asked at least 20 times if we were comfortable! Then we went 30 ft. to the estate where they had lovely fires and chairs for lounging and having a drink and watching the moon rise. It was getting cold, so the fires were welcomed!
As we started to eat, the elephant polo came began. People paid to play polo and the elephants lumbered up and down the field. When I asked later if the elephants enjoy the game, we were told that yes, they do because they don't have to run or carry loads or get poked with sharp metal sticks. Ha, we saw our mahout "stab" Rani when she got a little uppity.
Dinner was a buffet and it was alright but mostly I just wanted to go back to our hotel and sleep. By then Jim was over his traveler's dilemma and I was starting mine. When we met Subhash at his car, I asked if they gave him a good meal (we were out in the middle of nowhere and I assumed they took care of the drivers). He said they did but it was not good.
Well, this was another disappoint. All-in-all, I can think of a better way to spent $180, but at least we can say -- we rode an elephant. As though that was any claim to fame!


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